A handful of islands in Indonesia's remote eastern waters drove Europe's Age of Exploration and centuries of bloodthirsty conquest. All in pursuit of the nutmeg that grew only in this archipelago. So valuable were the these islands that one of the tiniest -- Pulau Run -- was once traded for Manhattan. But while New York has since been reinvented, the same half millenium has left little mark on Banda. Wander its Dutch forts and colonial warungs, amongst folks who are anything but in a hurry,...
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